If you were ever in any doubt about the resilience of capital-F Fashion, the return of in-person haute couture demonstrates the coming week proves that people are ready to get dressed up again. In addition to another sensational entry coming on Thursday with Pyer Moss’s Kerby Jean-Raymond to intervene in the couture calendar, the inaugural collection by Pieter Mulier for the Maison Alaia was one of the most vastly anticipated by industry insiders and followers of Azzedine Alaia’s designs.
Alaia, who passed out in 2017, has a legacy of transforming the codes of couture, starting it modern, sex and often quite minimalistic. A favourite of supermodels throughout the decades, the imaginative was known for using inventive cloths in his primarily body-con appears — which were greatly informed by his training as a sculptor — as well as “keying” motifs into fabrics rather than consuming unwarranted embellishment.
With such standing to value against, Pieter Mulier took up the task of creating the brand’s first collection in four years by respect what came before but not relying on it for credibility. The reaction was recreation and fresh, but not a terminated divergence from the iconic designs that for Clueless’s Cher Horowitz, were a call drop in and of themselves.
Mulier, who worked closely with Raf Simons in his roles at Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Klein, is at the helm of a way house for the first time. And for his introductory effort at Maison Alaia, he included many of its namesake’s most classic silhouettes and wordings — hooded getups, bare midriffs, sweeping hemlines — peculiarity them in a range of fibers from leather to denim. Standout shoes and pockets are also among offered up as a sign to the brand’s reputation for creating some of the most coveted supplements in the biz.
In addition to bringing a much-loved label back to eager patrons longing for extravagant wardrobe updates, Mulier’s collection portended an element of uniqueness that was talking about his venerate for Alaia’s trailblazing roads: It peculiarity both couture and ready-to-wear slice. Here are our top 10 sounds!
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