Unveiling the Game-Changer: Who’s Shaking Up Couture Fashion Week Like Never Before?
Ever wonder what it takes to crash the couture party when the guest list is tighter than your workout leggings after leg day? The Fédération de la Haute Couture, this ancient, almost sacred fashion circle, isn’t exactly handing out invites like candy. You’ve got giants like Chanel and Dior making waves for years, so where does a newcomer even start? Enter Michael Stewart and his label Standing Ground — a name that’s been causing quite the buzz since dropping their made-to-order debut straight out of the Irish Embassy in Paris. This ain’t your usual runway spectacle; it’s a masterclass in craftsmanship, subtle rebellion, and pure grit. Stick around—this story’s about more than just fancy threads; it’s about standing tall when the odds stack up. LEARN MORE
You don’t get a lot of new names on the couture calendar. One of the oldest institutions in the fashion industry, the Fédération de la Haute Couture is unsurprisingly rather exclusive about its selections. The rapid four days of presentations are dominated by fashion heavyweights like Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga, alongside brands like Iris Van Herpen and Zuhair Murad that have long built up their sturdy client bases. Needless to say, it’s hard to make a splash. But this season, everyone is buzzing about Standing Ground, a made-to-order label from Michael Stewart, who made his couture debut this morning at Paris’s Irish Embassy.
The first look consisted of a bias-cut silk skirt and structured jacket, both in a somber gray. The jacket’s edges appeared to be decorated with some sort of raised pattern. After a few more looks, it clicked: these were beads encased in sheer fabric. (It’s a technique that’s become something of a signature for him.) The collection evolved into meticulously draped jersey dresses with tonal, hand-beaded panels and column dresses with lines of perforation woven into a gridlike pattern. His final procession featured molded breastplates that looked almost lime-washed, fitted with heaps of fabric draped into skirts. As Stewart, a bearded Irishman clad in a double-breasted sports coat and khaki trousers, came to take his bow, we all wondered about the designer who had everyone raving at the start of couture week.
Stewart was born and raised in County Clare, a small province on Ireland’s west coast. He studied at London’s Royal College of Art, presenting his graduate collection in 2017, and has remained in England since. He was quietly working on custom orders until a spot in Lulu Kennedy’s design incubator Fashion East, a launchpad for designers like Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, and Simone Rocha, for Fall and Spring 2023 shows gave him a platform to show off his work. In 2024, he won the LVMH Prize. But even with that buzz, Standing Ground has stayed small, working out of a tiny atelier in London’s art and fashion hub 180 Strand.
Stewart is not working off of a mood board cluttered with photos of old movie stills and retro runway images. Instead, he looks way, way back to create something forward-thinking, focusing on the purity and persistence of ancient design and naturally occurring phenomena. The result is something that feels both prehistoric and vaguely sci-fi at the same time. If anything, his designs could be in dialogue with Pieter Mulier’s recent body of work at Alaïa, and, more broadly, evocative of Azzedine Alaïa’s use of technical fabric to engage with the body.
He hosted his first solo runway show in 2024, presenting a Spring 2025 collection that built on what he was doing at Fashion East. Today’s collection was not a radical departure from his initial ideas but instead leaned even further into the designer’s craft. The level-up to couture feels in line with the goals he has set for his brand. His approach is unlike most in today’s fashion business. He has foregone optics for a custom-order business, cultivating a small but loyal client base via word of mouth. Standing Ground has an Instagram account, but there’s no mention of a website anywhere. But he has something special to offer, and he seems to be confident in that knowledge. To state the obvious, Stewart is quite literally standing his ground.




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