Are You Secretly Sabotaging Your Skin Gains with This Common Moisturizer Mistake?
Ever find yourself standing in front of the bathroom mirror, eyeballing that jar of moisturizer, wondering if you’re slathering on just enough or drowning your face in it? You’re not alone. Moisturizer — the unsung hero of skincare — is touted as essential, yet no one really spells out how much is the “Goldilocks” amount to apply daily. Too little, and your skin’s thirst isn’t quenched; too much, and boom, hello pesky acne, cysts, and that dull, lifeless glow no one wants. Dermatologists confirm it: overdoing it is a real problem. But here’s the kicker — a study actually nailed down the science behind the perfect dose, and guess what? It’s easier than patching together those intimidating 10-step routines or hunting for the latest trendy ingredient. Curious about how much moisturizer is exactly right for your face and how to dodge those skincare missteps? Let’s break it down, so you can hydrate smart, not hard. LEARN MORE
- Moisturizer is one of the most essential skincare steps, but there’s little guidance on how much you should be using on your face daily.
- Using too much cream can cause certain skin issues, say dermatologists, including acne, cysts, and dullness
- One study found there is a right amount to use—and there’s an easy way to calculate what’s ideal for you.
With all the hype surrounding 10-step Korean skincare routines and trendy ingredients like snail mucin and ginseng, it’s easy to forget that, sometimes, a back-to-basics approach is best. And there’s no single beauty product that’s more essential than a good moisturizer.
Most dermatologists would agree: “Lately because of social media, I feel several people are overdoing it with complicated skincare routines,” says Bahar Firoz, MD, clinical director for the Center for Dermatology at Rutgers-Robert Wood Johnson Medical School. “I see many people with tiny cysts and different types of acne as a result.”
Meet the experts: Bahar Firoz, MD, MPH, clinical director for the Center for Dermatology at Rutgers-Robert Wood Johnson Medical School; Ife J. Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics; Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital
If you don’t want that to be you, it may be time to pare down your routine. The tricky part: plenty of facial lotions and creams don’t specify how much product you should be using, so it’s tough to know if you’re hitting the moisturizing sweet spot or going overboard.
Turns out, science has the answer: Here’s what one study found when it comes to how much moisturizer you should be using, plus what dermatologists want you to have in mind before slapping on your cream of choice.
What does the research say about moisturizer?
There’s aren’t a ton of studies out there on how much moisturizer to use, but one got very specific on the right amount to apply. Published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, the research analyzed the moisture content in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) in healthy women across different moisturizer application times and amounts and discovered that the skin’s water content was “significantly higher” when people used moisturizer immediately after bathing and when they applied amounts of 1 to 2 milligrams of moisturizer per centimeter of skin in the morning and at night.
What’s the right amount of face cream for you?
You’re probably not going to whip out a tape measure to try to figure out the exact surface area of your face to calculate the perfect amount of moisturizer to apply. (Although if you are, more power to you.) That’s why, for most people, a nickel-sized amount of moisturizer should do the trick, says to Ife J. Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics. But she points out that there’s some variability here: If your skin is on the drier side, you’ll want to apply a little more; If you tend to be naturally oily, less may be better for you.
In terms of how to apply your cream of choice, Dr. Firoz has some thoughts: “Dot the moisturizer on your forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin, then blend it out.” she says. “Your skin should feel hydrated, slightly dewy or soft, but not greasy or slick.”
Keep in mind that you may not even need to use a moisturizer regularly. “It is a myth that everyone needs a moisturizer,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital. “If your skin is not dry, itchy, or flaky, you may not need one.”
How much is too much?
In general, Firoz says that a tablespoon or more of moisturizer in one application is too much. “Using a tablespoon or layering heavy moisturizer multiple times a day without real need is generally overkill for most skin types,” she says.
Dermatologists say are some key signs to keep in mind that you’ve just applied too much moisturizer:
- Your skin feels greasy or slick 15 minutes after you’ve applied moisturizer.
- The moisturizer is balling up and flaking off your skin.
- Your skin feels sticky after application.
The signs you’re over-moisturizing.
Over time, your skin can develop symptoms of over-moisturizing. These are the biggest signs you need to scale back, according to dermatologists.
- You have clogged pores, breakouts, and milia (fine white cysts).
- Your skin’s natural oil production seems to have slowed down.
- Your skin looks dull (it’s from dead skin cells sticking onto your skin and getting sealed in).
“Instead of feeding your skin more product, try adjusting the formulation—switch to a lighter lotion or gel,” Firoz says.
How to find the right moisturizer for you.
Aside from putting on the right amount, dermatologists have plenty of thoughts on how to use moisturizer effectively. Firoz recommends making sure you match up your moisturizer with your skin type. So, if you have oily or acne-prone skin, a lotion may be a better choice; If you have dry skin, a cream is a good option since it has a heavier oil content. “Don’t skip moisturizer just because you have oily skin—dehydration can trigger even more oil production,” Firoz says.
5 Moisturizers For Different Skin Types
A solid option for nearly everyone, this hyaluronic acid gel-cream is hydrating but lightweight and oil-free. It features a slightly cooling sensation on skin, which is soothing and calming. The brand promises this one will keep you hydrated for up to 48 hours and absorbs quickly with no greasy residue. An all-around winner.
Complexion as parched as the Sahara? Here’s the formula for you: La Roche-Posay’s cream can be used on your face and your body and comes packed with calming niacinamide, barrier-repairing ceramides, and uber-moisturizing shea butter to hydrate even the driest of skin. Also worth noting is that this formula comes with prebiotics to feed skin’s microbiome, a collection of beneficial bacteria that keeps skin from leeching water.
This oil-free, non-comedogenic (meaning it won’t clog pores) lotion is perfect for those who are acne-prone and tend to look slick at the end of the day. It’s lightweight texture feels weightless on skin and it contains treatment ingredients like niacinamide (a proven pore minimizer), antioxidants, and ceramides to heal skin’s protective barrier and calm redness.
Caring for combo skin is a delicate balance: You want enough moisture for dry areas but nothing too thick on oily spots. Enter this well-balanced formula: It’s oil- and alcohol-free and features a lightweight gel-cream texture perfectly suited to those with a slick T-zone. At the same time, lightweight hydrators like the brand’s tri-ceramide complex (a blend of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids) make sure dry patches are supple and moisturized.
Avene is known for infusing its products with the brand’s proprietary calming thermal water, and this cream is no different, which makes it perfect for reactive skin. Sensitive types will also love that it’s fragrance-free (fragrance is a common skin irritant) and the brand promises that its formula will calm your outer layer in 30 seconds. Impressive.
It can also be helpful to adjust your moisturizing routine with the seasons. That means reaching for a lightweight lotion in summer when skin tends to be more oily, and a richer cream in winter when air is dry and homes have heating on which can be drying, Firoz explains. Finally, Rodney stresses the importance of keeping your skincare routine simple. “There’s no reason to use two or more different moisturizers,” she says. “Just one is fine.”
Of course, if you’re struggling with skin issues and you’re not sure what’s going on, it’s best to consult a dermatologist. They can help assess your skin and create a routine that works for you going forward.
Korin Miller is a freelance writer specializing in general wellness, sexual health and relationships, and lifestyle trends, with work appearing in Men’s Health, Women’s Health, Self, Glamour, and more. She has a master’s degree from American University, lives by the beach, and hopes to own a teacup pig and taco truck one day.
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