The Surprising Dermatologist Secrets to Banish Dandruff for Good – No More Flakes, Guaranteed!
Ever find yourself nervously glancing down at your shoulders, wondering if you’re about to unleash a tiny snowstorm on your black sweater? Yeah, been there—way back since the Obama administration, battling seborrheic dermatitis and its relentless sidekick, dandruff. It’s like this annoying little guest that won’t take a hint: the endless carousel of shampoos and conditioners, the maddening itch you can’t quite scratch, and the constant fear of white flakes making a surprise appearance at the worst possible moment. And don’t even get me started on all those “tips” that sound legit but totally miss the mark—like that old chestnut about dandruff only being caused by dry scalp or the nonsense about scraping off flakes before washing. Spoiler: it’s all fluff. So, what really causes dandruff, and more importantly, how do you kick it to the curb for good? I dove deep with four top dermatologists to get the real scoop. Ready to finally say goodbye to those stubborn flakes? Let’s get into it. LEARN MORE
AS SOMEONE WITH seborrheic dermatitis, I’ve been battling dandruff since the Obama administration, so I know all the annoying side effects too well—the endless rotation of shampoos and conditioners, the relentless itch, and the constant avoidance of black clothing. I’ve also heard every myth out there: that dandruff only comes from a dry scalp, that it’s seasonal, or that you need to scrape off flakes before washing for treatments to work. None of this is true, by the way—something I learned the hard way. Still, it doesn’t answer the real question: how do you actually treat dandruff? I turned to a quartet of dermatologists to find out.
What Causes Dandruff
Let’s get this out of the way: dandruff is not the result of poor hygiene. Every dermatologist I spoke to confirms this. According to dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick, MD, dandruff occurs from a combination of excess sebum (aka oil), inflammation, and yeast that develops on the scalp—none of which is triggered by not bathing. These factors then cause the flaking or irritation associated with the condition. This can also cause red, flaky patches or plaques on the scalp, often accompanied by greasy scales and itching, she says.
It often appears in cycles, flaring up during periods of stress or when temperatures and humidity levels change. Sweat buildup after workouts can worsen irritation, Garshick says, especially when the scalp isn’t properly cleansed. Although diet doesn’t directly cause dandruff, maintaining a balanced diet and limiting processed foods can help lower inflammation and support overall scalp health, she adds.
While dandruff isn’t caused by bad hygiene, I still wouldn’t recommend it. Dermatologist Dr. Dara Spearman, MD, says that washing your hair too infrequently can make dandruff worse and more visible because oil, dead skin cells, and product residue accumulate on the scalp, creating a perfect environment for flaking and irritation. It’s a delicate dance; however, because washing your hair too often can strip away natural oils, leaving the scalp dry, sensitive, and more prone to irritation. Maintaining a balanced washing routine with a gentle, hydrating shampoo is key to keeping the scalp clean without over-drying, reducing both oil buildup and flaking, Dr. Spearman says.
Dandruff is often associated with other scalp conditions, namely seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis. While both of these can cause or escalate flakes, they’re not the same as dandruff. To determine which you’re dealing with, pay attention to the details. Dandruff produces white or yellow flakes accompanied by mild itching, while seborrheic dermatitis represents a more inflamed and persistent form of the same underlying process, according to dermatologist Dr. James Kilgour, MD.
Psoriasis, on the other hand, produces thicker, silvery scales that can extend beyond the hairline and may also affect areas such as the elbows or knees. While treatments for these conditions often overlap, psoriasis usually requires prescription-strength therapy for proper management, he says.
How to Treat Dandruff
The bad news is that dandruff is a long-term condition with no permanent cure, says dermatologist Dr. Brendan Camp, MD. However, it can be easily managed with proper treatment. Simply stick to your routine to keep symptoms under control and prevent flare-ups. Sweet, so what’s the best treatment? In most cases, switching your shampoo will do the trick. The most effective way to manage dandruff is to wash your hair regularly with an anti-dandruff shampoo, says Dr. Garshick.
Look for formulas that contain antifungal ingredients such as zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, or selenium sulfide to control yeast overgrowth. Shampoos with salicylic acid or coal tar can also help by reducing excess oil, removing buildup, and minimizing flaking, she says. Consistent use helps keep the scalp balanced and prevents dandruff from returning. How often to wash your hair can be a bit tricky, though, and may require some trial and error.
Dr. Garshick says that washing your hair every day or every other day can help manage dandruff by removing excess oil and buildup that feeds yeast on the scalp. For many people, washing two to three times a week with a dandruff shampoo works best. A lot of it comes down to hair and skin type. Those with oily scalps may benefit from daily washing, while individuals with drier hair can alternate between medicated and gentle standard shampoos.
Although frequent cleansing helps control dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, it’s important not to over-wash or shampoo more than once a day, as this can strip natural oils, dry out the scalp, and cause irritation, she says. Finding the right balance for your hair type keeps the scalp clean without compromising moisture.
It’s also important to be patient with this process and avoid admitting defeat prematurely. Dr. Kilgour recommends sticking with a dandruff shampoo consistently for at least three to four weeks before evaluating results. Apply it at a minimum of two to three times a week and let it sit on the scalp for a few minutes before rinsing. Dr. Kilgour says that many people wash it off too quickly and lose its full effect. If there’s no improvement after about a month, try switching to a shampoo with a different active ingredient.
In some cases, alternating between two different active formulas works best, since dandruff often has several underlying causes, he says. If this fails, or you see bleeding or redness, it’s time to make an appointment with your dermatologist. Once you get your dandruff under control, it’s important not to switch back to a regular shampoo immediately full-time. This is the equivalent of dancing into the end zone and accidentally dropping the ball before you cross the goal line. Maintenance will be key to keeping flakes at bay, says Dr. Kilgour.
Continue using your dandruff shampoo once a week or every other week to keep yeast levels balanced. Also, avoid using any shampoos with heavy fragrances or harsh sulfates, as these can strip natural oils and irritate the scalp, helping dandruff return. “Think of it like skincare, you don’t stop just because things look good,” Dr. Kilgour says.
The Best Dandruff Shampoos
There is no dandruff shampoo that works for everybody, but there are standouts across the primary flake-fighting ingredient list. The key is to find what works best for you, which may take some patience and a few tries. Both Dr. Garshick and Dr. Camp back Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, pointing to the effectiveness of its ketoconazole-backed formula. Dr. Camp says that this anti-fungal ingredient helps address yeast growth on the scalp, which contributes to dandruff symptoms, especially redness and itchiness. It can even offer additional benefits, like helping to slow hair loss, Dr. Garshick adds.
CeraVe’s Anti-Dandruff Hydrating Shampoo is another favorite of Dr. Camp, as it’s great for sensitive scalps. This gentle, allergy-tested shampoo uses 1 percent pyrithione zinc to eliminate flakes and is free from irritants like phthalates, sulfates, dyes, parabens, or fragrance. For salicylic acid-led formulas—which help to remove build-up and flaking—Dr. Spearman recommends Neutrogena T/Sal. She also supports the classic lineup of Head & Shoulders shampoos for more targeted needs.
As someone with seborrheic dermatitis, I often deal with stubborn dandruff and redness. What I’ve found the most success with are coal tar shampoos, especially the RoyceDerm Coal Tar Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. It’s also an option Dr. Garshick backs. She says its combination of coal tar extract and tea tree oil works to reduce buildup and flaking while also moisturizing and nourishing the scalp to prevent dryness. There are also botanical extracts that calm inflammation and soothe irritation. What’s equally important to me is that it’s the only coal tar shampoo I’ve tried that doesn’t smell like fresh pavement.
Meet the Experts
- Dr. Brendan Camp, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York, NY.
- Dr. Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist.
- Dr. Dara Spearman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Radiant Dermatology Associates.
- Dr. James Kilgour, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Golden State Dermatology in Sacramento, California.
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Sean Zucker is the Grooming and Commerce Editor at Men’s Health. He brings over half a decade of experience covering health, wellness, and lifestyle. When Sean’s not writing about hair products, you can find him running for exercise, or toward the nearest food truck.
Christian is the deputy commerce editor at Men’s Health and Women’s Health, where he oversees shopping content for both brands. He started his magazine career as an accessories assistant at Vogue, and has since held editorial roles at Tatler Asia and The Manual. When he’s not online shopping, you can find him on long walks with his two corgis.










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