Women's Health March 7, 2026 0 Comments

Unlock the Secret Signs Under Your Eyes: Are You Battling Bags, Dark Circles, or Hollow Shadows?

Ever caught a glimpse of those stubborn shadows or puffiness lurking beneath your eyes and thought, “Man, why won’t these go away?” You’re not the only one locked in this battle against the under-eye conundrum. This delicate terrain beneath our eyes is a hotspot for frustration—and let’s be honest, a total mystery to many. Sure, the beauty aisles might be overflowing with eye patches, creams, and serums all shouting promises of a ‘youthful glow,’ but do they really deliver? Spoiler alert: Not always. The truth is, the skin under our eyes isn’t a one-size-fits-all problem. Puffiness, darkness, hollows—they all get thrown into the same ‘dark circles’ bucket, fooling us into stocking up on products that just don’t hit the mark. But here’s the kicker: knowing the exact beast you’re fighting is half the battle won. So, buckle up—because we’re diving deep, breaking down the common under-eye issues, their quirks, and how to tackle them like a pro. Ready to see those eyes shine with energy again? Let’s go. LEARN MORE

8 min read

If you’ve ever caught a glance of your under-eyes in the mirror and sighed in frustration, you’re not alone. The delicate area beneath the eyes is one of the most common concerns in dermatology and aesthetics. So it’s no wonder why beauty stores are packed to the brim with eye patches, creams and serums promising brighter, smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

Unfortunately for consumers, the skin under the eyes is also widely misunderstood, experts say, which is why so many under-eye products seemingly fail to deliver the dramatic results they promise. For instance, puffiness, darkness, and hollow under-eyes are often lumped together under the catch-all term “dark circles,” prompting people to reach for any ol’ eye cream and simply hope for the best. But these concerns aren’t interchangeable, and treating them as such is partly why so many products disappoint.

Meet the experts: Brianna Olamiju, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist for Spring Street Dermatology. Gabriel Chiu, DO, is a double-board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon at Beverly Hills Plastic Surgery. Grace Jensen, FNP-BC, is a nurse practitioner at JECT, a luxury medical spa chain. MJ Gandon, RN, MSN, FNP, a nurse practitioner founder of Toniik Medical Spa in Miami, Florida, and Los Angeles, California.

“Correct diagnosis is everything,” says Brianna Olamiju, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist for Spring Street Dermatology. This can be tricky for the average person since “under-eye concerns are often multifactorial, meaning bags and pigment and hollows may coexist,” Dr. Olamiju adds. But knowing exactly what you’re dealing with is crucial to addressing it properly. After all, eye creams “cannot correct structural problems like fat pads, bone structure, or significant volume loss,” Dr. Olamiju says. And no one wants to unknowingly waste money on products that are unable to address their concerns.

So here’s everything experts want you to know about the most common under-eye issues—including how to spot each one, the differences between them, and how to go about treating them. You’re well on your way to your most energized-looking eyes yet.

Under-Eye Bags

It’s easy to write off eye bags as a side effect of a poor night’s rest. Indeed, lack of sleep can temporarily make the space below your eyes gather more fluid and contribute to a puffy or swollen look, according to the Mayo Clinic. But under-eye bags that are visible all the time and feel soft or full when pressed usually occur when the fat pads that normally sit behind the eyes begin to push forward, says MJ Gandon, RN, MSN, FNP, a nurse practitioner founder of Toniik Medical Spa in Miami, Florida, and Los Angeles, California. “You’ll see a convex bulge. And when the patient smiles, it often becomes more pronounced,” she adds.

As we age, the thin membrane that holds the fat pads behind the eye can begin to weaken, allowing the fat to protrude and creating persistent puffiness, explains Gabriel Chiu, DO, a double-board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon at Beverly Hills Plastic Surgery. But exactly how much your under-eye fat moves over time is largely determined by your genetics, Gandon says, and topical under-eye products won’t reposition the fat causing the bags.

The only true permanent solution for bags caused by bulging fat are surgical procedures that remove those pesky fat pads such as a lower blepharoplasty, adds Grace Jensen, FNP-BC, nurse practitioner at JECT, a luxury medical spa. If the idea of going under the knife sounds too intimidating and you have mild bags, you can also consider getting under-eye filler injections—but it’s less than ideal: “Filler can make it worse,” by migrating, sitting unevenly, or making the bags look even more full, Gandon says. So be sure to visit an experienced injector who has a robust understanding of facial anatomy.

That said, under-eye puffiness isn’t always permanent or resolved only by surgery. For instance, factors such as allergies, a high-sodium diet, alcohol consumption, and lack of sleep can all increase fluid retention and exaggerate fullness under the eyes, Gandon says. And in cases where bags are caused by excess fluid, topicals can help a bit.

What to try

Consider under-eye products containing topical caffeine, experts say. Research suggests that this ingredient can temporarily constrict blood vessels and reduce visible puffiness. Green tea contains high caffeine content as well and can provide similar benefits.

You can also try using chilled products such as cooling pads or a refrigerated gua sha stone to temporarily reduce swelling and encourage lymphatic drainage, respectively. And over-the-counter vitamin A derivatives (aka retinoids) such as under-eye retinol serums and creams can encourage skin cell turnover and the production of structural proteins like collagen and elastin around the eyes—which may improve mild skin laxity around the eyes.

Here are a couple options to check out:

Solutions For Under-Eye Bags

Best Moisturizing Eye Cream

Neutrogena Hydro Boost+ Caffeine Eye Gel Cream

Now 52% Off

Credit: Neutrogena

Use this cream to moisturize the skin under your eyes and reduce the look of dark circles, fine lines and puffiness. It contains caffeine, which works to temporarily constrict the blood vessels under your eyes and combat darkness.

Best Brightening Eye Cream

Clinique All About Eyes Brightening Serum Concentrate

Credit: Clinique

This serum works to brighten, de-puff and hydrate skin. It’s formulated with a retinoid that helps accelerate the skin’s natural cell renewal process, helping to thicken and smooth out the under-eye.

Best Under-Eye Gua Sha

TeraRX Terahertz Mushroom Gua Sha

Credit: TeraRx

This gua sha can help increase blood circulation and encourage skin rejuvenation, especially around the eyes thanks to its bulbous shape. Glide this tool gently across the skin to release tension and relax your face muscles.

Dark Circles

Similarly to eye bags, dark circles are often blamed on sleep deprivation. But that’s usually not the only factor at play, especially since there are multiple types. For instance, vascular dark circles tend to appear reddish, blueish or purple due to visible blood vessels under the eyes. This tends to happen because under-eye skin begins to loosen and thin as we age, making those blood vessels easier to see, according to the Cleveland Clinic. And some people are born with more translucent skin than others, Gandon says, so genetics also play a role regardless of age.

Dark circles can also appear brownish in color, Dr. Olamiju says, and that’s usually due to genetic hyperpigmentation and excessive or unprotected sun exposure over time. Here’s some good news: When it comes to under-eye concerns, dark circles have the potential to significantly improve with the use of skincare products. But the exact approach that works best depends on the underlying cause.

What to try

Like under-eye bags, vascular circles tend to benefit most from products containing caffeine since the ingredient can temporarily constrict those visible vessels and reduce swelling.

But skincare products containing ceramides can help support skin barrier integrity, which can reduce translucency that exaggerates darkness, experts say. And using peptides and retinol can also help gradually thicken the middle layer of skin and make vascular circles less visible. (If you’re giving a retinol serum or any other retinoid a try for the first time, however, just be sure to incorporate the ingredient into your routine gradually, Dr. Olamiju says. Your skin can get irritated from using too much of a retinoid product too quickly, she adds. That can worsen under-eye pigment and compromise skin barrier integrity—potentially exacerbating the very concern you’re trying to fix.)

And of course, getting better sleep and limiting your exposure to allergies can also help prevent the abnormal accumulation of blood within vessels and reduce dark circles, Dr. Olamiju says. Good sleep can also regulate inflammation in the body, fluid balance in the under-eyes, and collagen synthesis, Dr. Chiu adds. Other seemingly tiny lifestyle adjustments—like avoiding chronic eye rubbing—can also make the under-eye area appear brighter.

When it comes to dark circles caused by pigmentation, active ingredients used to fight dark spots are going to be key. So look out for common skin-brightening ingredients such as vitamin C, which inhibits melanin production and provides antioxidant protection; niacinamide, which supports skin barrier health while evening out skin tone; and azelaic acid, which gently exfoliates the skin while slowing melanin production. Other ingredients to consider include tranexamic acid, prescription hydroquinone, and alpha arbutin. And keep in mind that these topical treatments require consistency and patience—months, not days. But the results will be well worth the wait.

And don’t forget: Exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays can worsens skin discoloration, and accelerate skin thinning. It can also worsen other signs of aging and increase your risk of skin cancer. So using a daily sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 or more is just as critical to fighting under-eye issues as investing in serums.

Here’s a few products for dark circles to get you started:

Treatments To Combat Dark Circles

Best Vitamin C Serum

Sunday Riley C. E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

Credit: Sunday Riley

If you’re looking to reinforce your skin’s barrier while fighting dark spots and oxidative stress, this serum is for you. It contains a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, ensuring impressive results.

Best Daily SPF

Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF 50 Weightless Mineral Sunscreen

Credit: Tatcha

There are countless serums you can slather on your skin to prevent signs of aging. Perhaps none are more effective than good ol’ sunscreen. This one has a sun protection factor of 50, which will help prevent under-eye skin pigmentation and thinning.

Best Niacinamide Serum

Dr. Althea To Be Youthful Eye Serum

Credit: Dr. Althea

Youthful under-eyes are enviable. They’re possible with this serum that includes niacinamide, peptides, and other active ingredients to help smooth and brighten the skin. Plus, its lightweight and non-sticky.

Hollow eyes

Hollows, also known as tear troughs, are the deep creases that run from the inner corner of the eye down across the top of the cheek. They’re frequently mistaken for dark circles because they cast shadows under the eyes that look like discoloration, Gandon says. But in reality, they stem from volume loss that occurs from genetics or the natural aging process.

As we age, we lose bone density, fat volume, and collagen. And as a result, the mid-face can flatten. That structural shift creates a depression beneath the eye, which changes how light reflects off the face. It can be hard to tell if you have hallow eyes since they look so similar to dark circles, but here’s a quick test Gandon performs on her own patients: “If I lift the skin slightly and the darkness improves, that is structural shadowing, not pigment,” Gandon says.

Other clues that you’re dealing with hollows include a visible groove from the inner corner of the eye downward, and darkness that improves when light hits the face straight on.

What to try

For this particular concern, treatment focuses on restoring structure. Hyaluronic acid under-eye filler can smooth the transition between the lower eyelid and cheek when placed conservatively and deeply. Meanwhile, regenerative treatments like Platelet-Rich Plasma injections (or PRP) work to “stimulate collagen and elastin production, which increases the thickness of the dermis and makes the skin less translucent,” Jensen explains. Results are gradual and require patience, but they can improve skin quality in ways that filler cannot.

Topical treatments can still play a supporting role, particularly when skin thinning exaggerates the appearance of hollows. Over-the-counter retinoids can help thicken the middle layer of skin over time (though perhaps not as much as a PRP treatment) while peptides can help support collagen production and slightly soften shadowing.

Hydrating ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides can also temporarily plump the surface of the skin, making the indentation appear less stark in certain lighting. But at the end of the day, topical treatments cannot replace lost bone or fat volume, though they can improve skin quality enough to make a small difference in your day-to-day appearance. Plus, they can make regenerative and structural treatments look better and last longer.

The Bottom Line: There’s no one-size-fits-all solution

Sadly, there isn’t a miracle serum or even a magic procedure you can get to address any and all under-eye concerns. The best approach will depend on what, exactly, you’re dealing with. But as a general rule of thumb, consider starting out with topical treatments. And if you don’t see improvement after several months of properly sticking to a skincare regimen, consider a professional assessment for in-office procedures, Dr. Olamiju says. That evaluation can clarify whether volume loss, fat pad movement, hyperpigmentation, or vascular visibility is the dominant factor—and guide your treatment plan accordingly.

With a clear diagnosis and realistic expectations, the under-eye area can look noticeably fresher through consistent topical care, lifestyle refinement, or carefully selected in-office treatments. Translation: The secret to better under-eyes isn’t haphazardly buying more products—it’s targeting the right problem.

Samantha Leal is a writer, editor, and content strategist whose work centers around all things lifestyle—beauty, fashion, drinks, food, travel, and wellness (to name a few). Basically, all the good things in life. She holds a journalism degree from the Medill School of Journalism at Northwestern University, and has held roles at Well+Good, Marie Claire, Latina magazine, and The Knot. Her byline has appeared in Refinery29, Glamour, Teen Vogue, Apartment Therapy, and more.

Katie Mogg is the beauty editorial assistant at Women’s Health. Since starting college at Northeastern University in 2020, her bylines have appeared in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, NBC News and The Boston Globe. She strives to help readers lead happier and healthier lives through science-backed stories that explain how to care for hair, skin and nails. When she’s not working, Katie enjoys live music, strolling through Central Park, planning her next beach getaway, and sharing hotpot with friends.