Unlock the Secret Techniques Top Dermatologists Use to Erase Every Type of Scar — Yes, Even Stubborn Acne Marks!
Ever noticed those little reminders on your skin—the scars—that tell tales of childhood scrapes, that one pimple you absolutely could not resist popping, or even the profound journey of childbirth? Yeah, me too. We all carry them, like badges stitched into our very being. But here’s a curveball for you: those marks, whether a tiny nuisance or a proud emblem, are actually your skin’s way of armor-building. According to Dr. Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, these scars happen because your skin’s healing squad—fibroblast cells—go a bit rogue by tossing out collagen in all directions, leaving behind that unique texture and color. Scars aren’t all cut from the same cloth either; knowing whether yours are sunken or raised can seriously tweak your game plan. Buckle up, because I’m diving into expert insights and tried-and-true strategies that won’t make your scars vanish into thin air, but will definitely amp up your skin’s comeback story. Ready to flip the script on those battle scars? Let’s do this.
Whether it’s the result of gnarly skinned knee from childhood, a particularly pesky pimple you just had to pop, or even giving birth, we’re willing to bet that anyone—nay, everyone—reading this has at least one scar.
And what you may see a minor annoyance, major defect, or badge of honor is actually the result of a complex biological process that is ultimately about protection. “A scar occurs when there’s some type of trauma to the upper layer of skin, called the epidermis, or the layer of skin just below that, referred to as the dermis,” explains Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco. “As the skin heals, fibroblast cells produce new collagen in irregular fashion, resulting in textural and color changes in the skin.”
Meet the experts: Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco. Kenneth Mark, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Raj Dedhia, MD, is a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon in San Francisco.
Adding insult to injury (pun intended), a scar is, by definition, permanent. That’s why the most critical element of treatment is realistic expectations. “The goal is better, not invisible,” adds Raj Dedhia, MD, a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon in San Francisco. It’s also important to note that not all scars are created equal. They fall into two main categories: atrophic, or indented, and hypertrophic, or raised, explains Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. Knowing which of those you’re dealing with can help you come up with the right plan of action.
And speaking of plans of action, we’ve got them for you here. These expert-backed solutions won’t necessarily eliminate your scars, but they can absolutely yield noticeable improvement.
What is atrophic scarring?
Simply put, an atrophic scar is a scar that’s indented or looks sunken in. Surgical scars have a tendency to be atrophic, notes Dr. Dedhia, as can those from major trauma. But acne scars are arguably the most common example—and there’s variation there, too. “Icepick scars are small but very deep, while the boxcar variety are disc-shaped and wider,” Dr. Mark explains. There are also rolling scars, which result in a wavy, undulating skin texture.
In terms of what causes these scars, several factors are at play. When it comes to surgical scars, the layers underneath the epidermis may not have been properly brought together before the skin was stitched up so, as everything heals, there’s no underlying support for your skin and it ‘collapses,’ says Dr. Dedhia. Excess tension on the wound and mobility in the area increase the likelihood of this happening (atrophic scars are common on larger areas of the body where there’s constant muscle movement, like the back).
In the case of traumatic scars, the fibroblasts in the area may be damaged and not able to produce enough collagen. Acne scars often occur in those who battle large, deep cysts or blind pimples. “A cyst essentially replaces the natural thickness of the dermis, so once it finally heals, it collapses, creating a depressed area,” Dr. Dedhia explains.
How to treat atrophic scars.
With a little effort (and a lot of consistency and patience), you can make a difference in the appearance of these types of indents. Here’s your plan:
At Home
We’ll give it to you straight: “At-home treatments for atrophic scars are minimal,” says Dr. Dedhia. “It’s more about prevention than it is treatment.” While you may not be able to ward off an unexpected injury or necessary surgery, scars from acne are slightly within your control. Since these scars usually form due to deep, cystic pimples, seeing a dermatologist and getting on some sort of prescription-strength acne medication is key. “Ultimately, the goal is to keep those big cysts from forming in the first place,” says Kenneth Mark, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. And when pimples do pop up, resist the urge to pick. This causes unnecessary trauma to the skin that can lead to both scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, a type of dark discoloration that results after there is trauma caused in skin, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.
All that said, using products with collagen-building ingredients can’t hurt. They can improve the overall appearance of the skin, even if they don’t do much for the specific scar itself, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal, who puts retinoids like a topical retinol serum at the top of her list. Dr. Mark adds that trying at-home red light devices for their collagen-boosting and anti-inflammatory benefits is another option.
Products To Treat Atrophic Scars
Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends using topical retinoids like retinol to treat indented scars, and Paula’s Choice’s product contains the gold-standard concentration of the ingredient, along with skin-firming peptides and vitamin C for an even bigger bang for your buck. When using this—and any—powerful retinol product, start slowly with a pea-sized amount every other day. If your skin doesn’t freak out, work your way up to nightly use.
When used consistently, at-home red light therapy devices can stimulate collagen to plump up scars that dent in. This mask from Shark Beauty is pricey, but earns rave reviews from Women’s Health editors and comes with some super-cool features that set it apart from the rest. They include built-in cooling under-eye patches and a blue light setting (to reduce inflammation).
In A Doctor’s Office
Dr. Mark says non-ablative lasers that help stimulate collagen and elastin are often his first line of defense. “These offer a skin-tightening effect that contracts indented scars so that they aren’t as wide, while also helping fill them in as collagen builds,” he explains. Microneedling is another option, thanks to its collagen-boosting effects, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. She adds that injectable filler is another way to, quite literally, fill in very small, deep scars.
Atrophic scars can be surgically excised, which means the sunken-in area is cut out and removed entirely. But note: That process can also leave a scar in its wake, so pick your poison. Ultimately, for atrophic scars and acne scars in particular, a combination of these different therapies is most effective, says Dr. Mark.
What is hypertrophic scarring?
On the opposite end of the spectrum are hypertrophic scars, which are classified as scars that appear elevated and leave a bump on the skin rather than an indentation. Keloids are an example of hypertrophic scarring. Their main distinguishing factor: They grow outside the margin of the original wound, explains Dr. Dedhia. Both standard hypertrophic scars and keloids can also be itchy and uncomfortable, he adds.
An overproduction of collagen is to blame for the bumpy texture, and many people are genetically predisposed to hypertrophic scars, especially people of color. “While more research is needed to determine exactly why this is, the thought is that the collagen-producing fibroblasts are more reactive in those with darker skin,” explains Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. These types of scars can occur anywhere on the body, although the trunk and earlobes are two very common areas.
How to treat hypertrophic scars.
The good news: There’s slightly more you can do in your own bathroom to minimize the appearance of these raised scars. But it’s also important to know when to call in a pro.
At Home
All of the experts we spoke with sang the praises of silicone strips or patches. While silicone itself is an inert ingredient, covering the area seals in moisture and promotes a better environment for wound healing, Dr. Dedhia explains. Secondly, they’re putting constant pressure on the elevated scar, which can help flatten it, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal adds. The big caveat: The sooner you can get your hands on these, the better. “You want to be using these when the skin is still healing and scar still forming to reap optimal benefits,” Dr. Dedhia advises. “Once it’s fully formed the silicone is going to have limited effects.” Always talk to your doctor, but typically starting a week or two after any stitches are removed is a good rule of thumb. And stock up, because you should plan on using them for up to six months, adds Dr. Mark.
Per the pressure part of things, massage and compression are also very helpful for breaking down excess scar tissues and flattening hypertrophic scars, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. Again, check with your doc, but this can also typically start around the two-week mark. “The more often and the more intensely you can massage the scar, the better,” she says. You can DIY, but there are also special compression garments that will apply constant pressure to hypertrophic scars and keloids on the body, as well as little earring-like discs that are often used on the ears, adds Dr. Dedhia.
Products To Treat Hypertrophic Scars
Crafted from medical grade silicone, ScarAway’s sheets are the gold-standard, proven to flatten and reduce the appearance of keloids and other hypertrophic scars. And by flooding the area with hydration, these also help to reduce the redness and itching that can commonly accompany hypertrophic scarring.
The patented micro-pearls embedded into these compression leggings can help to put constant pressure on hypertrophic scars, breaking them up and flattening them the same way massage can. These also have the added benefit of stimulating microcirculation to prevent swelling and improve energy.
In A Doctor’s Office
Steroid injections are the name of the game. They make raised scars or keloids less painful and itchy and may help flatten them as well, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. Again, excision is another option, albeit a risky one. “This is usually a last resort because cutting out a hypertrophic scar often results in an even more hypertrophic one,” Dr. Mark points out.
There are also other in-office options, though many are controversial and not FDA-approved, notes Dr. Dedhia. These include injections of other medications, like chemotherapy agents, as well as radiation, all of which work to inhibit the activity of the fibroblasts. And these typically need to be performed as the scar is starting to form, rather than after the fact, he says.
How to get rid of discoloration from scarring?
Sure, a scar’s texture is irksome, but so is any color change that comes with it. “Scars are either red, hypopigmented, meaning they lack color, or hyperpigmented, meaning they look darker,” Dr. Mark explains. Your skin tone, as well as the type of scar, dictate the end result. Broad strokes: Atrophic scars tend to be hypopigmented, and hypertrophic scars hyperpigmented, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. The former is both trickier to treat (there’s no real way to add color to the skin) and much more permanent, although, happily, much less common, she notes.
Hyperpigmentation, while annoying, is relatively easy to treat. “Oftentimes, PIH is what bothers people most about their scars, especially those as a result of acne, but it will go away on its own,” Dr. Badreshia-Bansal says. You can help things along by using topical skin-brightening agents (vitamin C, azelaic acid, and niacinamide are the top ingredients to look for) and being diligent about sun protection. For red scars, IPL is pretty effective, says Dr. Mark.
Products To Treat Discoloration From Scars
YSE Beauty Morning Cocktail Vitamin C Serum
This super-powered serum combines three proven skin brighteners—vitamin C, niacinamide, and azelaic acid—into one majorly effective product. Also going in its favor: A lightweight texture that never leaves skin feeling greasy or slick and a hefty does of squalane to hydrate. Top it off with SPF 30 and you’re ready to greet the day.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-In Sunscreen Milk Sunscreen SPF 60
Now 32% Off
Designed to be used on both the face and body, this SPF checks a lot of boxes when it comes to preventing discoloration from making scars more prominent: It has an SPF of 60, absorbs quickly with chemical ingredients that won’t leave a white cast on even the darkest skin, and features a smooth, velvety texture that is appealing to most skin types.
The bottom line: It’s a long road.
Ultimately, treating scars is about being patient. “You have to keep in mind that the scar will get better on its own as the body goes through natural stages of healing,” says Dr. Dedhia. (Looking for a tangible timeline? He says it can take up to 18 months for a scar to reach its final appearance.) In the meantime, focus on promoting optical wound healing, followed by what can be done to make it look better, he says. That’s the key word—better, not totally improved
Scars are one of the hardest things to treat; ultimately, you need to come to grips with the fact that you won’t be able to fully get rid of them, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. Remind yourself that ‘progress over perfection’ is the name of the game and you won’t be disappointed.
Melanie Rud is a beauty writer and editor with over 15 years of experience in the industry covering skincare, makeup, hair, and more. Her work has appeared in Shape, Real Simple, Byrdie, In Style, RealSelf, Good Housekeeping, PopSugar, and multiple other print and digital outlets. Additionally, she works as a personal beauty coach and also offers consulting services for beauty companies.
Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.
Post Comment