Unlock the Shocking Truth Behind Your Glow: What Really Happens to Your Skin When You Tan—Dermatologists Spill All
So you’re chasing that sun-kissed glow this summer? Trust me, you’re not alone—tanning oil by the pool was a timeless classic, and now Gen Z is turning up the heat with tanning beds and obsessing over the UV Index like it’s their new best friend. But here’s a curveball for you: while you might think that bronze radiance screams health, dermatologists are seriously side-eyeing these trends. Why? Because a tan is less about looking good and more about your skin waving a red flag. UV rays—whether from Mr. Sun himself or those artificial tanning beds—are quietly wreaking havoc, damaging DNA and upping your skin cancer risk. Scary stuff, right? But don’t freak just yet; understanding the science behind that tan can empower you to protect your skin without sacrificing that glow. Ready to dive deep into why tanning isn’t as glamorous as it seems—and how to keep your skin safe and fresh? Let’s get into it.
6 min readIf sporting a sun-kissed tan is on your summer to-do list, welcome to the club. For years, tanning oil was a poolside staple, and now, Gen Z is (dangerously) obsessing over tanning beds and the UV Index to achieve their idea of a glamorous complexion.
But here’s the thing: Doctors are cringing at the mere thought of these growing trends. Why? Because tanning does a lot more harm to your skin than good. “Tanning is a sign of distress, not health,” says Nicole Lee, MD, a dermatologist, cosmetic and laser surgeon, and founder of Epoch Dermatology.
Here’s a quick primer on why: The sun emits three types of ultraviolet radiation: UVA, UVB, and UVC rays. Exposure to UVA rays are what tan—and ultimately age—your skin, exposure to UVB rays can cause your skin to burn and raise your risk of skin cancer, and UVC rays (fortunately) don’t make it past the earth’s atmosphere. You’re naturally exposed to UVA and UVB rays when spending time outside (yep, even when exercising outdoors) which is why the sun causes you to tan and or burn. Tanning beds, meanwhile, primarily emit artificial UVA rays, so your skin appears darker with less risk of burning, though using them still significantly raises your risk of skin cancers.
Meet the experts:Anna Chacon, MD, is a dermatologist specializing in medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology. Nicole Lee, MD, is a dermatologist, cosmetic and laser surgeon, and founder of Epoch Dermatology. Maya Thosani, MD, is a dermatologist, micrographic dermatologic surgeon, and owner of Modern Dermatology.
But what really happens to your skin when you get a tan? According to dermatologists, a lot more than you may think. Here’s a breakdown everything experts want you to understand about tanning your skin, including the science behind a tan, and how to keep yourself safe.
Exactly What Happens to Your Skin in the Sun
You may think a tan looks good, but it’s actually a sign of something that’s anything but. The darkening of the skin is essentially your body’s defense mechanism to DNA damage from the sun’s ultraviolet radiation. “When UV rays penetrate the skin, they cause mutations in the DNA of skin cells,” says Nicole Lee, MD, a dermatologist, cosmetic and laser surgeon, and founder of Epoch Dermatology. In response to those DNA mutations, the skin produces more melanin—the skin pigment that protects skin by increasing absorption and diffusion of sun radiation—and makes you tan.
More melanin means darker skin, but chronic DNA damage can cause cells to grow abnormally, leading to skin cancers like basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and even melanoma, an aggressive and oftentimes fatal form of the disease, Dr. Lee says. Ultraviolet radiation, whether it’s from the sun or a tanning bed, is a Group 1 carcinogen, according to the International Agency for Research On Cancer, which means there’s the highest level of evidence that it’s cancerous to humans.
In the short-term, tanning significantly exacerbates skin conditions since sun rays weaken the skin barrier, triggering intense dryness, sensitivity, and inflammation, says Maya Thosani, MD, a dermatologist, micrographic dermatologic surgeon, and owner of Modern Dermatology.
UV exposure also stimulates melanocytes, the specialized cells that produce melanin, worsening pigmentary disorders like melasma (a chronic skin condition that causes brown or bluish-gray patches on the face due to an overproduction of melanin) and rosacea (a chronic skin condition that causes redness, flushing, and visible blood vessels on the face), she says.
Sun exposure is also cumulative, so decades in the sun causes collagen breakdown, leading to premature aging and poor skin elasticity, or the ability of the skin to stretch and return to its original shape, says Anna Chacon, MD, a dermatologist specializing in medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology. Plus, years of tanning increases the risk of Poikiloderma of Civatte, a notoriously difficult-to-treat skin condition that causes reddish-brown discoloration along the neck and upper chest, Dr. Lee says. Over time, the skin in these areas can even become thick and take on a leathery texture.
And yes, whether it’s from the sun or artificial rays from a tanning bed, Dr. Chacon says UV damage begins immediately—even after just 15 minutes of unprotected exposure. “Tanning equals damage in one way or another, and every tan increases the likelihood of skin cancer, so I cannot stress enough that any amount of unprotected UV exposure carries risk,” she says.
So while people think a subtle tan gives the illusion of a healthy glow, it’s actually your skin’s way of protecting itself from serious damage. “There’s really no such thing as a safe tan from the sun or a tanning bed, because over time, this cumulative UV exposure increases the burden of DNA mutations, which is why frequent tanners have a significantly higher lifetime risk of developing skin cancer—even if they don’t burn,” Dr. Lee says.
How to Protect Your Skin from UV Rays
It can feel scary to know that exposure to the sun can result in not only signs of aging, but potentially deadly skin cancers, too. But luckily, there are steps you can take to keep yourself safe. Here’s what to focus on:
- Avoid peak sun hours. The sun’s rays are strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., so Dr. Lee recommends avoiding direct, unprotected sun exposure during these peak hours. “I advise patients to enjoy the outdoors early in the morning or late in the afternoon when UV intensity is lower.”
- Apply sunscreen…and then apply it again: As a rule of thumb, Dr. Chacon says you should apply broad-spectrum sunscreen (one that protects against UVA and UVB rays) every single day, rain or shine, but especially when the UV index is three or greater. The best sunscreen is the one you’ll use consistently, but the American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends applying a sunscreen with sun protection factor of 30 or higher, which works to blocks about 97 percent of UVB rays. Higher SPFs offer slightly greater protection that allow you to stay out longer, but no sunscreen blocks 100 percent of UVB radiation, Dr. Lee says. And you should aim to reapply your sunscreen every two hours, but since that’s not always doable, Dr. Lee suggests applying a generous amount in the morning and then again at lunch and in the late afternoon. And if you’re sweating or swimming, you should diligently reapply a water-resistant SPF every two hours, she adds. Most people also don’t apply enough SPF, so Dr. Thosani recommends using two finger lengths of sunscreen for the face (though an amount roughly the size of a quarter is a good metric, too) as well as a shot glass’ worth for the body.
- Consider the type you’re using: Both mineral and chemical sunscreens protect the skin from UV, but Dr. Thosani typically recommends mineral options, since they create a physical barrier that reflects and scatters UV rays away from the skin’s surface. That physical barrier, however, can sometimes leave behind a white cast, which can be more visible on darker skin tones. So keep your eyes peeled for mineral formulas that melt into the skin seamlessly, or consider sticking to chemical sunscreens that use FDA-approved ingredients.
- Wear protective clothing: “The best protection from UV is a physical barrier, so I recommend wearing UPF clothing, hats, and sunglasses when you’re in the sun,” Dr. Thosani says. Emphasis on UPF clothing. “If the fabric allows sunlight to pass through and cannot maintain the tight weave in the water, then it’s not protective,” she says. And if you can’t totally cover your skin with UPF clothing while outside for extended periods of time, again, Dr. Chacon says “using an SPF every day is paramount.”
At the end of the day, these tips aren’t very useful if you don’t have an effective sunscreen that’ll actually get the job done in the first place. So if you need a restock, here are a few options Dr. Thosani and the Women’s Health beauty team can stand behind:
Expert-Recommended Sunscreen To Safeguard Your Skin
This mineral sunscreen is formulated especially for those with sensitive skin since its hypoallergenic, paraben-free and fragrance free. Plus, the sunscreen contains aloe vera to soothe and moisturize while protecting from the sun.
If you’re looking for a sunscreen that does the job of SPF, skincare and makeup at all once: This is the pick for you. This tinted, mineral sunscreen offers a sun protection factor of 50, alongside vitamin E for antioxidant protection.
The Bottom Line
A tan might look like a healthy glow, but it’s actually your skin sending out an SOS. Whether it comes from the sun or a tanning bed, that bronzed glow signals DNA injury that can fast-track aging and increase your risk of skin cancer over time. So the safest way to protect your skin as the days get longer and you spend more time outside isn’t to chase a tan—it’s to prioritize daily sunscreen use and limit exposure to ultraviolet rays through habit adjustments. Think of it this way: the real glow-up is keeping your skin healthy, protected, and damage-free for the long haul.
Andi Breitowich is a freelance writer who covers health, fitness, relationships, beauty, and smart living. She is a graduate of Emory University and Northwestern University’s Medill School of Journalism. Her work has appeared in Women’s Health, POPSUGAR, Food & Wine, What To Expect, Cosmopolitan, Men’s Health, and elsewhere. As a former collegiate pole vaulter, she loves all things fitness and has yet to meet a group workout class she doesn’t like.
Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.
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