Women's Health March 18, 2026 0 Comments

Unlock the Skincare Showdown: Retinol vs. Bakuchiol – What Dermatologists Aren’t Telling You!

Ever caught yourself standing in front of the skincare aisle, wondering if retinol deserves its legendary “GOAT of topical anti-aging” status or if there’s a gentler contender worthy of your glow? We all know the power players like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide — each a champion in its own right. But retinol? It’s the tried-and-true veteran backed by decades of clinical research, promising to smooth wrinkles, fade dark spots, and rev up collagen like no other. Yet, with great power comes a not-so-glamorous downside: dryness, peeling, sun sensitivity, and a steep learning curve that could leave you second-guessing your next serum.

Enter bakuchiol — the promising plant-based upstart boasting similar anti-aging perks without the typical retinol drama. Sounds like the skincare world’s equivalent of a dark horse, right? As someone with sensitive skin who’s faced the fiery trial of retinol many a time, I couldn’t resist diving deep with top dermatologists to unpack the truth: How do bakuchiol and retinol really stack up? Can bakuchiol deliver those coveted skin benefits without the ouch? And, most importantly, which one should you actually invest in for your unique skin story?

Let’s unravel this botanical battle and decode the science, the benefits, and the best ways to incorporate either hero into your routine — so your skin can finally thrive, not just survive.

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10 min read

You probably already know beauty MVPs like vitamin C for brightening the skin, hyaluronic acid for infusing extra moisture, and niacinamide for soothing irritation. While those ingredients indeed deliver results, retinol is a prolific powerhouse that stands out from the rest of the pack: After all, it’s considered one of the only skincare ingredients proven to work. Plus, it has decades of clinical research to support its benefits.

That’s why, when it comes down to it, “retinol is the GOAT of topical anti-aging,” says Hallie McDonald, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of the skincare line ERLY. And I must say, my own experience backs that up: Retinol helps me target pretty much every major skin I have—it helps smooth my fine lines and wrinkles while fading my dark spots and improving skin laxity.

Meet the Experts: Divya Shokeen, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of OSVI Dermatology and Surgical Institute. Hallie McDonald, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of the skincare line ERLY. Anar Mikailov, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York and the cofounder of Skintensive.

However, incorporating a retinol serum into your skincare routine requires some tact and know-how. For instance, failing to use the ingredient gradually can lead to side effects such as dryness, burning, stinging and peeling. Retinol can also increase sun sensitivity, experts say. Plus, doctors generally recommend against using retinol while pregnant as a precaution to avoid changes to fetal development. Yikes. These potential pitfalls have given rise to a relatively new skincare ingredient that’s challenging retinol’s beauty crown: bakuchiol. It’s a plant-based alternative that mimics retinol’s glowy results but is often gentler on the skin.

So as a beauty editor with a particularly reactive complexion, I just had to ask board-certified dermatologists how bakuchiol stacks up against tried-and-true retinol, and if it’s actually worth a try. Ahead, the experts break down what each ingredient is, the benefits they provide, how to use each one safely, and how to decide which one is best for you.

What is retinol?

For the uninitiated, retinol is a topical skincare ingredient derived from vitamin A. It belongs to a larger group of compounds called retinoids, which include ingredients such as tretinoin, adapalene, and retinal, just to name a few. Retinoids are commonly used in dermatology to treat a wide range skin concerns, namely signs of aging and acne.

Not all retinoids are available over the counter. Tretinoin, for example, requires a prescription from a doctor because it starts working its magic on the skin immediately—which means it comes with a higher risk of irritation. By contrast, retinol goes through a multi-step process on the skin to be converted to the ingredient’s active form, retinoic acid. This means retinol takes longer to work but is generally more tolerable compared to prescription-strength retinoids. And that’s why it’s available in beauty stores as an incredibly popular ingredient in skincare serums.

What benefits does retinol provide the skin?

Retinol (and all retinoids) are skincare superheroes because they work to rev up the skin’s production of collagen, a protein that’s responsible for keeping our complexion, youthful-looking, bouncy and firm. As such, the ingredient is a great choice for folks looking to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

But that’s not all. The ingredient also helps accelerate skin cell turnover, the natural process of shedding old skin cells and replacing them with new ones. In turn, retinol can help accelerate exfoliation and contribute to smoother skin texture, unclog pores which can help reduce acne flare-ups, and even fade hyperpigmentation and contribute to a more even skin tone, explains Divya Shokeen, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of OSVI Dermatology and Surgical Institute.

So perhaps the better question is, what benefits doesn’t retinol provide the skin?

How do I use it?

You’ve probably heard someone lament the itching, redness, and flakiness they experienced after using retinol, which is often referred to as “the retinol uglies,” or the dreaded retinol purge. Well, dermatologists refer to this as the retinization process, and I’m happy to report that it’s actually normal and temporary—though its exact length varies depending on how well your skin adjusts to the ingredient.

Those aforementioned side effects typically last between two and six weeks, but it’s possible to experience irritation for as long as eight to 12 weeks if you have very sensitive skin or the concentration you’re using is too potent, explains Dr. Shokeen. Pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads can also happen, but they generally resolve within four to eight weeks as well.

That may sound like a lot to endure for the sake of better skin, but the dermatologists I spoke with say a little patience for the long-term benefits of retinol is well-worth the wait. “Retinol works,” Dr. Shokeen says, “but you must respect it.” So here are some quick and easy tips to help minimize side effects and make your experience with retinol as fruitful and seamless as possible.

Use retinol only at night: Vitamin A derivatives including retinol can degrade when exposed to the sun’s ultraviolet rays. No one wants to use a skincare product that stops working once you step outside, so many experts recommend incorporating a retinol serum into your nighttime skincare routine so you don’t have to worry about it becoming ineffective. Plus, your skin naturally repairs itself the most overnight, so applying some retinol before you go to bed is a surefire way to optimize its benefits and wake up with skin that looks and feels refreshed.
Don’t skip sunscreen: You’re probably already well-aware of the fact that sunscreen is key to reducing signs of skin aging and minimizing your risk of skin cancer. That’s why dermatologists recommend people use sunscreen with a sun protection factor (or SPF) of at least 30 every single day. Those factors are reason enough to make sunscreen a mainstay of your morning skincare regimen, but if you need one more: SPF is an absolute must if you’re looking to add retinol to your routine. That’s because the ingredient’s ability to increase skin cell turnover causes the skin to become even more sensitive to the sun’s ultraviolet rays than it already is and, in turn, leave skin more prone to damage and sunburns.

Start low and slow: “Applying too much can cause more irritation, not more benefits,” says Dr. Shokeen. You only need a pea-sized amount of cream for your entire face, Dr. McDonald adds. And when you’re kick-starting your retinol journey, start by applying the ingredient only once or twice a week. That might sound overly conservative, but you can always up the frequency after six to eight weeks, or whenever you feel most comfortable. And it’s better safe than sorry! “Jumping from no retinol to nightly application often leads to irritation, and applying more than a pea-sized amount can overwhelm the skin,” she says. TL;DR? Treat retinol like a marathon, not a sprint.
Master the ‘Sandwich Method:’ Our experts say failing to moisturize enough is one of the most common mistakes you can make when using retinol since it can lead to extra dryness and irritation. One technique to sidestep that issue is the sandwich method: Start with a base layer of moisturizer, layer on the retinol, and finish with a second layer of moisturizer on top. And keep the rest of your routine simple, Dr. McDonald says, using just a cleanser, moisturizer, and eye cream, for instance, to allow your retinol to work effectively.

Understanding the benefits and limitations of retinol is just the first step. To help you avoid buyer’s remorse, consider these three no-fail retinols that earned major snaps from experts. Whether you’re a beginner looking for budget-friendly moisturizers or a seasoned pro investing in a wrinkle-fighting cream, these are a few formulas that dermatologists and the Women’s Health beauty team trust for real results.

Best Retinol Products, According to Dermatologists And Expert Testing

Best Overall

SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 0.25

This serum offers multiple strengths: 0.25 for beginners, and 0.5 and 1.0 for the most advanced anti-aging benefits. Plus, it’s a longtime favorite in our guide to the best wrinkle creams.

Best Budget Buy

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Face Moisturizer

Now 40% Off

If you’re a retinol newbie or don’t want to make a triple-digit investment in a single skincare product, opt for this drugstore powerhouse. Alongside retinol, this product includes on hyaluronic acid to prevent dryness and infuse extra hydration into the skin, allowing it to double as a moisturizer.

Best For Sensitive Skin

Fig.1 Retinol Night Cream

This retinol serum offers a stabilized form of retinol in a hydrating formula that doesn’t cause irritation. Plus, it’s formulated to introduce retinol into the skin especially gently and gradually, making it another great option for beginners or those with irritable skin.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a natural, plant-based antioxidant that has skin-calming properties,Women’s Health previously reported. Unlike retinol and other retinoids, bakuchiol is not derived from vitamin A. Instead, the ingredient is extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant.

In recent years, bakuchiol has been lauded as a formidable retinol alternative thanks to its tolerability and gentleness despite the similar cosmetic benefits it provides the skin. Alongside it’s ability to fight signs of aging, the ingredient also demonstrates anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, according to a 2022 research review. Plus, the ingredient is considered a pregnancy-safe skincare ingredient that can help mothers address skin concerns they’d otherwise turn to retinol for.

What benefits does bakuchiol provide the skin?

To be fair, there are not as many robust studies investigating the cosmetic skin benefits of bakuchiol for the skin compared to retinol, experts say. So relatively speaking, the evidence is limited. “Bakuchiol is like a talented newcomer to the skincare scene,” Dr. McDonald says. “It is impressive, but it is still building its résumé.”

But what we do know is quite promising. For one, a 2019 study comparing the efficacy and tolerability of retinol and bakuchiol found that the ingredients were equally effective at reducing signs of skin aging such as wrinkles and dark spots, but bakuchiol did so without causing as many signs of irritation such as facial skin scaling and stinging. Major snaps!

Meanwhile, a 2023 research review found that topical bakuchiol functions similarly to retinol in that it boosts the skin’s production of collagen. As such, using it consistently has been shown to reduce the appearance of fine lines, improve skin elasticity and firmness, improve moisture retention, and even reduce visible damage in the skin from the sun, according to the review.

And perhaps the biggest perk is that the ingredient is generally well-tolerated, even for those who find retinol too irritating, Dr. McDonald says. And the 2023 review backs this up, reporting that bakuchiol can “be an effective anti-aging treatment for people of all skin types.”

How do I use it?

You’ll be able to spot bakuchiol on the ingredients labels of various skincare products such as cleansers, exfoliators, and masks. However, it’s ideal to use a leave-on product like serum, moisturizer, or oil to allow the ingredient to absorb into the skin and work most effectively, Anar Mikailov, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York and the cofounder of Skintensive, previously told Women’s Health.

Since bakuchiol isn’t commonly associated with the same irritation and sun sensitivity issues as retinol, you don’t have to worry about gradually ramping up usage or the time of day you put it on your skin, experts say. In fact, you can use it up to twice daily, Dr. Mikailov adds.

Plus, bakuchiol plays nicely with other active ingredients, including antioxidants like vitamin C, and gentler retinoids like retinyl palmitate, Dr. Mikailov says. But to be on the safe side, consider using bakuchiol and exfoliating acids such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid on different days of the week: Even though bakuchiol is gentle, combining it with alpha hydroxy acids like the aforementioned can be too irritating for some people.

Bakuchiol Products Dermatologists Recommend

Best For Dull Skin

HERBIVORE Bakuchiol Serum

This hydrating formula makes this bakuchiol serum gentle enough for daily use. It’s made with two forms of the ingredient to help boost skin elasticity, smooth skin texture. To get the most of this product, apply it daily by massaging 2-3 drops onto cleansed and toned skin in the morning and at night.

Best For Dry Skin

OLEHENRIKSEN Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer

This serum is great those who want to use bakuchiol in a moisturizer. It also has peptides to support firmness and barrier health. Plus, the non-comedogenic formula is compatible with all skin types, and it’s infused with ceramides to help protect your delicate skin barrier.

Best For Sensitive Skin

Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides Serum

This options is also formulated with peptides for added firming and smoothing benefits without the risk of irritation. It’ll help plump and firm even the most irritable skin types. It’s also intended for those who can’t use retinol for other reasons such as pregnancy or breastfeeding.

How to decide between bakuchiol and retinol

At the end of the day, choosing between these mighty skincare ingredients is down to personal preference. After all, there is data to support both of them, and they provide similar cosmetic benefits. But if you’re feeling stumped, here’s a quick breakdown of the factors that may make to lean more towards one over the other.

You might prefer retinol if…

You value data: There’s no if, ands, or buts about it: There’s more evidence to support retinol than bakuchiol, Dr. McDonald says. So if you want something that we know for sure is effective, retinol is your gal.
You want results quickly: Retinol is generally considered more powerful than bakuchiol. While that carries the risk of a unwelcome retinol purge, it also means the ingredient generally delivers stronger, more noticeable results in collagen production, skin texture, and acne in a shorter amount of time compared to bakuchiol. If you’re looking to improve your skin stat (or more realistically, within about 6 months) retinol might be a better choice for you.
You’re not prone to sensitivity: Despite how effective retinol is, that doesn’t erase the fact that it is simply intolerable for some people. If you’re not prone to that sort of irritation or sensitivity—and you’re not pregnant or planning to conceive—you can rest assured that your experience with retinol is likely to be effective and pleasant.

You might prefer bakuchiol if…

Your skin is reactive: If you’re looking for minimal skin irritation and are okay with milder skin benefits in return, bakuchiol is a good option for you. You can think of the ingredient as a gentle but still effective alternative for people who usually get irritated by anything too active, says Dr. McDonald. In fact, it’s pretty much safe for everyone unless oyu happen to be allergic to the babchi plant.
You’re pregnant or planning to be: Again, bakuchiol is a popular alternative if you’re pregnant or planning to conceive. Thanks to this ingredient, your skincare and beauty goals don’t have to be put on pause during pregnancy. However, given the relatively limited research on the ingredient, it is still best to consult your doctor for total peace of mind before incorporating bakuchiol into your routine if you’re pregnant.

Ultimately, the best choice is the one you can use consistently and comfortably. As for me, I’ll continue to stick with retinol for now, but I plan to experiment with bakuchiol once my jar of wrinkle cream runs out.

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Nicole Saunders is the beauty editor at Women’s Health and has nine years of experience researching, writing, and editing lifestyle content. She specializes in breaking down complicated topics, like red light therapy for hair growth and LED face masks, into easy-to-understand guides. Saunders takes great pride in heavily researching and testing featured beauty products, such as strengthening shampoos and body washes for dry skin on our site.
Previously, she was the beauty editor at Best Products where she tested quite literally thousands of launches for her quarterly column and the Best New Beauty Awards package. She also launched the beauty and wellness coverage at NBC News and contributed to CNN, Cosmopolitan, Billboard, The Hollywood Reporter, and Harper’s BAZAAR.
You can follow her on Instagram to stay in the loop on her product testing adventures.

Katie Mogg is the beauty editorial assistant at Women’s Health. Since starting college at Northeastern University in 2020, her bylines have appeared in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, NBC News and The Boston Globe. She strives to help readers lead happier and healthier lives through science-backed stories that explain how to care for hair, skin and nails. When she’s not working, Katie enjoys live music, strolling through Central Park, planning her next beach getaway, and sharing hotpot with friends.