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McCardell was known for her innovation in design, granting women freedom by transferring the conveniences of menswear to women—without sacrificing style. “The thing I’ve noticed about the Tobie is you’re seeing it do exactly what McCardell espoused, taking you from day to night,” she says. These were clothes that served women in every scenario of their life, whether they were at the office, a cocktail party, or in the midst of raising children. “Independent clothes for independent working gals,” as McCardell said, were monumental in the ’30s and ’40s, as women were heading to the office in droves, often for the first time.

But is that same shape revolutionary nearly 100 years later? “We are still trying to figure out what women are allowed to wear to signal being a professional,” posits Dickinson of the precarious tipping point between masculinity and femininity as it pertains to corporate dress. “Women have never really left that place of questioning what it means to get dressed to go to work every day.”