How Ralph Lauren’s Bold American Swagger Shook Milan’s Elite Fashion Game — And What It Means for Your Style Hustle
You know, everyone says Ralph Lauren equals American style—like that’s some world-changing revelation. We get it—it’s etched in fashion DNA. But here’s the kicker: instead of strutting his latest Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren lines through the familiar streets of New York, the brand took a bold detour… all the way to Milan. Yes, Milan! Nearly 4,000 miles away from the Big Apple, where you’d expect the quintessential grit-and-glory of American prep to unfold. So, what’s going on? Is this a sign that American style still commands respect across the pond, or just a savvy play in the global fashion game? Pull up a chair, because last week’s Milan runway brought together an eclectic mix of star power and style that had everyone talking—and trust me, the vibe was electric. Ready to see how a brand built on tradition is mixing it up with fresh, wearable energy in a city known for its sartorial bravado? Let’s dive in. LEARN MORE
3 min readAt this point, saying that Ralph Lauren is synonymous with American style is such a well-worn truism that it feels almost unnecessary to mention. So I won’t belabor the point here. It’s accurate; we all know it. What’s interesting, though, is that recently the designer and his team have decided to show the latest collections from Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren not in the capital of American fashion and the headquarters of the brand—New York, that is—but about 4,000 miles away, in Milan.
At least one sort of American export, it seems, is still thriving.
Tadanobu Asano and Tom Hiddleston.
David Lauren, chief branding and innovation officer of Ralph Lauren, and Lewis Hamilton.
That’s why, last week, a veritable horde of editors, insiders, and international A-listers—Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, Maluma, Tom Hiddleston, Scott Eastwood, Tadanobu Asano, and more—made their way to the Palazzo Ralph Lauren on Via San Barnaba to see what Ralph and company have in store for spring/summer 2027. The last show, which was the first time that Polo and Purple Label have shared a runway, was a barnburner, sending fans into a frenzy over the mix of collegiate staples, youthful streetwear, and high-end tailoring. Expectations were high. Would the brand be able to channel that same sort of electric energy in Milan once again?
Well, yeah.
The boro-style jacket is part of a collaboration with Japanese label Kuon.
The flower-adorned boater cap nods to a tradition at Eton College.
Ralph’s knack for world-building is second to none, and this time around, he—along with the senior brand creative director for Purple Label and Polo men’s, John Wrazej, and the rest of the design team—brought an eclectic, entrancing vision of that world to the runway. As the celebs rubbed shoulders in their front-row seats, American prep got similarly cozy with boro cloth from Japanese label Kuon and flower-adorned boater hats created in homage to the Eton College rowing team. Field jackets became de facto suit jackets. Patchwork madras—sometimes paired with camo—got even louder and more mashed-up, and cravats suddenly reentered the conversation.
It sounds like a lot. It was a lot. But the real magic trick is how genuinely wearable it all felt. Runway looks are often crafted for provocation, not imitation. Most of Ralph’s spring/summer 2027 outfits, though, seemed like they could work in real life for the right sort of guy. The menswear enthusiasts in attendance were already thinking along those lines.
Madras figured heavily in the Polo portion of the show.
Doesn’t get much preppier than Nantucket Red chinos.
“I love when the RL team sources these incredible pieces of history or craftsmanship to layer into their usual stable of menswear,” says Zach Weiss, a menswear influencer and friend of Esquire. He mentions the tux jackets in indigo-dyed boro from Kuon, the boater caps, the nods to vintage RL sportswear as personal standouts. “An evening in the world of Ralph Lauren always makes me look at dressing differently and makes me want to try a little bit harder when I put an outfit together.”
Matt Hranek, founder and editor of WM Brown magazine, is inclined to agree. “Navy blue, white, polkadots, and stripes. Japanese boro-style patched dinner jackets and open kimonos over black-tie—I’ll take it all,” he says. “The combination of somewhat unexpected styling elements is always the standout at Ralph, and I find it incredibly inspiring. Heavy linen field coats worn tonally as suiting with neck ties, white linen waistcoats and jackets worn with shorts and fishermen sandals…this is all going to be woven into my real-life dressing.”
Camo, madras, blaze orange, and a couple of pennants for good measure.
A bag that looks better with a four-in-hand knot.
And though Albert Muzquiz, who you might know as Edgy Albert, is a big fan of Purple Label, he was even more excited to see Polo on the runway. “Because Polo is so much more accessible, it feels more exciting to watch,” he explains. “The styling isn’t abstract; it’s something you yourself could theoretically pick up and emulate. It makes me sit up and pay attention.”
The through line, as it has long been in Ralph Lauren’s world, is personal style. Esquire’s own creative director, Nick Sullivan, acknowledges that some of the elements—the boater caps, especially—might seem “somewhat niche.” But, he says, “it illustrates what all Ralph Lauren shows do, which is that he is a master of meaning and as comfortable playing with unfamiliar style references as age-old Americana. No matter what your jam is, Ralph has you covered.”
The Purple Label boys backstage.
And one of their Polo counterparts.
Or, in the words of Ralph himself (provided in an exclusive statement to Esquire): “I write through my clothes, creating worlds where dressing can be an adventure. This season, Purple Label and Polo continue that storytelling for men who embrace a style that expresses who they are.”
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